Where to stay
Accommodation options in Majorca are endless. However, in my opinion, it’s worth basing yourself in Palma and hiring a car to explore the island. That way you can enjoy the best of the city (including the vibrant nightlife), while getting out to see the best bits of of the island during your stay.
However, if your holiday is all about the beach, then book a hotel or apartment in my favourite resorts including Palmanova, Alcudia, Can Picafort, or Colonia de Sant Jordi, and drive from there.
Alternatively, get into the countryside, and book a stay in a villa or agrotourism farmhouse to enjoy the cooling mountain air as well as stunning coastal views in northern Majorcan hill towns such as Valldemosa, Deia, Soller, Fornalutx or Banyalbufar.
So let’s get started with my recommended itinerary:
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Day 1: Palma-Old town
It’s worth taking a full day to see Palma and in particular the Old Town, all of which can be explored on foot. Ask at your hotel for a detailed map or pop into your local tourist information centre.
The first stop is the Palma Cathedral or "La Seu" which is world renowned for its neo-Gothic style. See inside to find artist and sculptor Barceló’s modernist influence in one of the chapel areas.
From here you can then move onto "Almudaina Palace", and the "Episcopal Palace" moving onto the "s'Hort des Rei" gardens, and the fabulous "Palau March". If you need a coffee break then stop off in one of Palma’s most famous cafés "Cappuccino," which has a lovely terrace overlooking Palma’s busy Plaza de Reina.
Once refreshed, follow the road up to Plaza de Cort and dive off the side street to "Colmado de Santo Domingo" where you can find a massive selection of traditional Balearic shoes called abarcas. These once famous peasant shoes originate from Menorca and are still worn around the islands today, particularly during the summer months.
Bear in mind that smaller shops close on Monday to Fridays between 1.30pm and 4pm, or Saturday from 1.30pm and all day Sunday. If you are visiting during the week, the siesta makes a great time for a food break. I recommend the fabulous restaurant “El Parlament” (Where? C/ Conquistador, 11 Tel.: 971 726 026) and is famous for its paella rice dishes. Save room for dessert though – we’ll get to that later.
Continue up towards Plaza de Cort. In the centre, see the centuries old olive tree, which has since become a landmark in the city, and to the left, the grand town hall (step inside for a quick peek inside this historic building).
Walk onto Plaza Santa Eulalia, and dive off onto Calle Portella and Calle Morey to explore the tiny winding old town streets. Top sights here include original Majorcan manor houses including "Can Oleza", "Ca la Gran Cristina" "Hormiguero Can" and "Arab Baths."
Eventually make your way slowly to Plaza de San Fransico to see the church of the same name, and onto Calle Sanç where you will find one of the most famous of the old Majorcan cafes "Can Joan de S'Aigo" (C / Sanç, 10 Tel.: 971 710 759). Stop off here for an ensaimada (spiralled pastry) with locally made almond ice cream.
From here, head through Placa Quartera, and Calle Cordería (there are some great artisan shops here where you can buy hand made straw bags) or Via Sindicat (a stretch of mainly shoe shops) to grand Plaza Mayor, the location of the Spanish inquisition.
Exit the square onto Calle San Miguel where you’ll find a string of clothes shops. Turn left onto to the Calle Olmos and exit on to Las Ramblas. This is one of Palma’s prettiest avenues. A flower market is held here most days, and occasionally there are some artisan stalls, selling locally made products.
If you have a good grasp of the Spanish language, pop into the “Teatro Principal” and see what’s on. Plays and concerts are held here in Spanish or Catalan, and make a great alternative night out.
Continue on and pause briefly in another of Palma’s iconic cafés – the “Forn des Teatre”, whose pretty painted frontage is reminiscent of the post Modern era in which it was constructed.
As well as being famous for its fabulous ensaimada patries and friendly staff, the café serves up meals, tapas and even pinchos (nibbles) for those who just fancy a light bite.
Cross the road here and wander into the Grand Hotel, which also sports an impressive post modernist frontage. As Palma’s first and most famous hotel, the building has been converted in a free art gallery.
From here, move onto Paseo del Born, which forms the backbone to the Palma’s city centre. And as well as being the location of fashion stores H&M, Massimo Dutti, Corner and Zara, there’s another great free art gallery worth a visit. Head towards the Tourist Information Centre, which also serves as the entrance to “Casal Solleric”, a beautiful old manor house, turned gallery and is worth visiting just to see its lovely patio area.
On the other side of the Bourne, you’ll see another tempting stop off. “Bar Bosch” (Plaza King Juan Carlos, 6. Tel: 971 721 131). This is another famous pavement café and one of the only eateries open until the early hours of the morning for those suffering from the midnight munchies. Try something local, and ask for a “langosta de jamón serrano” which is like local ham baguette.
If shopping’s on the agenda, then wander onto Jamie III, where the Spanish royal family are often spotted shopping during August.
Culture vultures should head to “Es Baluard”, Palma’s biggest art gallery, not least because the views over the bay of Palma from the terrace café are particularly stunning, particularly at sunset.
During the evening, the restaurants around La Lonja and the bars in Plaza Atarazanas are some of the liveliest. I recommend "La Paloma" (Where: C / Apuntadors, 16. Tel: 971 721 745), and "Wineing" (Where: C / Apuntadors, 24. Tel: 971 214 011) all rounded off with a boogie in Bluesville (Where: C/Ma des Moro nº3).
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Day 2: Palma-Port d'Andratx-Banyalbufar-Valldemossa
Get up early to take in some fab views of Palma. Head along Calle Joan Miró and follow the signs to Bellver Castle. This is also one of the only round Gothic styled castles in the world.
From here, get onto the main autopista (motorway) to Puerto de Andratx, and follow the signs to Cala Llamp. This is a real hidden gem, and a fantastic place to take a dip. Set under the dramatic mountains on the west coast of the island, come here to eat in the "Great Foli restaurant (Tel: 971 671 094) whose terrace looks out over the ocean!
After lunch, jump in the car and head through the mountains in the direction of Estellencs, Banyalbufar, Port des Canonge and onto Valldemossa. The views along here are stunning particularly when they meet the coastline.
Once in Vallemossa, one of Majorca’s most famous hill towns, park in one of the parking areas on the edge of pedestrianised old town. Also, you can visit the former home of Chopin, and the pretty painted church.
On the way back to Palma, stop off for diner in a couple of my favourite restaurants which offer fine views. The first is "Na Burgess" on Calle Camí Monument (Tel: 971 400901) or take a side step to Genoa, home to one of the best Argentinean meat restaurants on the island: "La Rueda" (Where: Calle Rector Vives, 5-11.Tel: 971 703 460).
For those travelling on a budget, then "The Mussol" (Calle Victoria López Ferrer, 3. Tel: 971 702 865), is a great option as it serves some traditional Majorcan light bites, "pa amb oli" (bread, ham, garlic and tomato), as well a type of fondue.
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Day 3: Soller-Port de Soller-Sa Calobra-Deia
Hang up the car keys for a day and hop onto the antique tourist train which leaves from Plaza España and cuts its way through the Sierra de Traumuntana mountain range and fragrant orange groves and then catch the tram to the port. From here, hop on any of the boats leaving for Sa Calobra where you can have a swim and lunch in the shadow of the dramatic coastal cliffs.
The total journey costs around 40 euros. Leave Palma at 9am in the morning, and catching the last train back at 6pm.
If you decide to drive to Sa Calobra via Soller then stop off at Fornalutx which is a lovely old Majorca hill town filled with citrus trees. Also, make a stop in Soller, with its magnificent church which forms the centrepiece and the heart of the town.
My favourite restaurant, the "Domenico" is in fact Italian and family run (Marina, 44 Tel: 971 433 155) and "Es Faro" (Far de Punta Grossa, s / n. Tel.: 971 633 752) which is right up next to the lighthouse, looking out over Soller Harbour. It’s a little pricey, but the food is good.
Alternatively, go to Deia for dinner. Since some celebrities have holiday homes in or around the town (eg. Catherine Zeta Jones, Michael Douglas, and Bob Geldof) getting a table in restaurant here means you’ll never know who you’ll meet.
My favourite is the "El Olivo" restaurant (Son Canals Tel: 971 639 392). The service is great, the food is tasty and it’s set in beautiful surroundings. Another cheaper option is the "Deia" ( C / Felipe Bauza, 1. Tel: 971 639 265) where portions are generous.
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Day 4: Inca-Alcudia-Pollença-Formentor-Cala Sant Vicenç
Set off around 9.30am and take the main road in the direction of Inca on route to Alcudia. Inca is a small industrial town and a great stop for those who want to pick up some leather bargains from the factory outlet stores belonging to Camper, Farrutx, Barrats, Lotusse.
Continue down the road to Alcudia and turn off when you see the signs to the ancient Roman city of “Pollentia", and the "Teatro Romano" ruins as well as “Santa Ana Chapel". It’s also worth visiting the museum on the sight (entrance fee is just three euros).
Recommended restaurants in the area include "Can Punyetes" (Calle de les Barques. Tel: 971 548 352) which is famed for its great tapas. Also try "Can Moncho "(On the Aucanada road 1. Tel: 971 548 755) specialising in meat and seafood.
On leaving Pollença, you have two choices. Either follow the signs to Alcudia and stretch out on the miles of golden sands for the afternoon, or follow the signs towards Formentor.
The views on the road to Formentor which snakes it over the headland are possibly some of the best on the island. Either visit the lighthouse or follow the signs to the beach. You’ll notice the Barceló Hotel Formentor lying at one end of the peninsula. This once famous 1930s hotel used to be holiday home to the Queen, Churchill and other film stars including Charlie Chaplin and now attracts those who wish to soak up the five star luxury...
On the way back to Palma, it’s worth stopping off at Cala Sant Vicenç for dinner and an evening swim. I recommend the "La Moraleja" restaurant (Los encinares. Tel: 971 534 010) which offers spectacular views across northern Majorca. Average meal prices are around 50 euros.
Also “Modesto” (Torrent de Can Botana Tel:971 531 463) is a great family restaurant, which offers top quality food and cheap eats.
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Day 5: Manacor-Portocolom-Portopetro
Time to explore the east of the island, and the quickest way to getting here is taking the take the main road from Palma to Manacor, the birthplace of tennis legend Rafael Nadal. Make a stop off in the tiny town of Vilafranca where you can buy freshly picked fruit from the roadside stalls.
Manacor is another industrial town on the island and famous for “pearl production”. There are several factories to stop off here if you’re in the market for jewellery. Pearl necklaces and ear-rings are considerably cheaper here than the jewellery shops in Palma.
From Manacor, follow the signs to the “Caves of Drac”, situated near to the pretty fishing town of Portocolom. The caves consist of huge stalactite and stalagmite formations underground making this a great escape from the heat.
Lunchtime recommendations just a few minutes drive from the caves include "Ca's Patra" (Calle de l'Assumpció, 22. Tel: 971 556 768) which is a family run restaurant offering delicious and reasonably priced food. Alternatively try "Sa Sinia" (Calle Pescadors, Tel: 971 824 323).
After lunch, those in search of the beach can head to two very pretty beaches, "Cala Sa Nau” and “S'Amarador" which was voted by www.onbeach.com as the best beach in Europe. When you see the white sands and turquoise seas, you’ll see why!
For dinner, there are a couple of great and very different restaurant options nearby: Either try the Japanese restaurant "Midori" (Calle des Far, 16. Tel: 971 648 282) which is part of the Hotel Blau Porto Petro or for something more traditional, try the Majorcan food restaurant "La Caracola" (Where: Paseo des ports. Tel: 971 657 013).
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Day 6: Colonia de Sant Jordi-Cabrera
There are a few tiny islands surrounding Majorca, and the best to visit is Cabrera, just off the coast by Colonia de Sant Jordi. Leave Palma early, and drive in the direction of Campos, and then follow the signs to Colonia de Sant Jordi. Ferries leave regularly. Either buy a ticket directly at the port or telephone in advance: 971 649 034.
Because this is a nature reserve, facilities here are very limited. So don’t forget to take water, a hat, sunscreen, an umbrella as well as food. Also if you have a snorkel and mask, take this too. The visibility from the turquoise waters is depth defying. This is one of Majorca’s most beautiful spots, which sports unbelievably bright white sands, and glistening blue water.
On your return to Colonia de Sant Jordi, take a refreshing stop off at the “Hostel” ice-cream shop where all ice-cream homemade (Where: Calle Ingeniero Gabriel Roca, 8. Tel: 971 655 278 ).
Head back into Palma for dinner, and get on the glad rags for dinner in Puerto Portals. Situated just a few kilometres down the coast from the city, Puerto Portals is a magnet for the super yachts and their super rich and famous passengers. The royal family are often seen dining here during summer months, as are footballers and their wives.
The restaurants are pretty high brow, but the cheapest food option with the best atmosphere is Wellies (Where: Puerto Punta Portals 23-24. Tel: 971 676 444.) with main courses costing around 20 euros. The steaks, burgers and roast duck are fabulous! After dinner, wander around the docks and the moored yachts, to see how the other half live.
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Day 7: Palma-Playa d'es Trenc
Save the best beach until last for your final day on the island.
Take the main road again in the direction of Santanyí and Campos, but this time, pick up the signs to Es Trenc beach. This is by far one of the longest of the pristine beaches in the Mediterranean and can easily be mistaken for anywhere in the Caribbean or the Maldives.
Because Es Trenc is also a nature reserve, it attracts nudists, but they tend to congregate on the centre of the sands.
Either stop off at any of the supermarkets before leaving Palma and bring a picnic or eat at one of the chiringuitos (seafood restaurants), at the Ses Covettes end of the beach. Alternatively, head to Ses Salines side (you will see the mined salt mountains on route to the car park here), and eat as "Casa Manolo" (Plaza Sant Bartomeu 1-2. Tel: 971 649 130). Paella and lobster stew are big favourites here.
For the final night in Palma, venture into Santa Catalina, just across the road from Paseo Majorca. There are several restaurants here including "Pastagonia" (C / Soler, 26. Tel: 971 903 511) which is famed for its fondue, or “Sa Llimona"(C/ Sant Magí 11. Tel:971 280 023) which is famous for its pa amb oli (bread and meats).
Then move onto any of the bars on Calle Sant Magi, before gravitating towards the nightlife on the Paseo Maritimo. If you’re visiting the city between Wednesday and Saturday, then Garitos Café is a worthy stop off (Dársena Can Barbara, Palma. Tel: 34 971 736 912), which converts from a cool café during the day, to an even cooler club at night. Check listings as international guest DJs often play here.
And if by 3am, you still have energy to party, King Kamehameha is the place to be (Paseo Maritimo 29, Palma. Tel: 34 971 282 797) as it pumps out the very best blend of dance music. For a big dose of Spanish cheese and Euro-pop, try Marsalada (Where: Paseo Maritimo, Club de Mar Palma. Tel: 605 34 54 34).
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