Rebeca's Diary
Insiders Guide to Andalusia


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I’m a native Andalusian, so this is my recommended guide to see the best of the region in a short space of time.  

The best time of year to visit Andalusia is during the Spring.  May is a great month, as various festivals take place, including the "Las Cruces de Mayo" in Granada or "Los Patios" in Córdoba.  However, while it’s a great opportunity to see Spanish culture at its finest, hotel prices can go up in towns hosting these events.  If you’re travelling on a budget, then stay in nearby towns and enjoy the festivities during the day.  

Here’s my itinerary for a one week whirlwind break to enjoy the best of Andalucia:


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Day 1 - Malaga
Day 2 - Malaga, Nerja, Granada
Day 3 - Granada
Day 4 - Granada, Cordoba
Day 5 - Cordoba, Seville
Day 6 - Seville
Day 7 - Seville, Jerez, Ronda, Marbella
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Day 1 - Malaga

Malaga is a good place to start as the airport is the largest in Andalusia and easily accessible from just about everywhere in Europe.  

In Malaga, take a walk through the historical centre, and visit Calle Larios and the surrounding streets.  This is also Malaga’s commercial and social arts centre. Check out too, the quaint shops, bars and restaurants.  I recommend:

Restaurant El Trillo can be found in a tiny street off Calle Larios.  They serve excellent appetizers and ensure you ask for the jamón (ham) or lomo (pork) dishes.  Head here for a high quality feed in a great atmosphere.
Where?
Calle Juan Díaz, 4, Tel: +34 952 603 920 

Lo Güeno”Restaurant:   This is one of the best traditionally Andalusian tapas bars in Malaga. Because it’s small and popular with the locals, I’d recommend arriving early to bag a table.  They serve up a massive selection of weird and wonderful tapas including tripe stew (nicer than it sounds)!  Where:  Calle Marín García, 9 Phone: +34 952 223 048

Tripe stew digested, head to Malaga Picasso Museum, where you can see pieces from his collection.  A short walk up the road, and you’ll also find the building where Picasso was born.
Where: Calle San Agustín, 8. www.museopicassomalaga.org

Head on to Malaga Cathedral, which is home to over 42 wooden carvings by Pedro de Mena and the regionally famous painting of the Virgen del Rosario by Alonso Cano.  The acoustics here are incredible and if you’re lucky, and the choir is practicing while you visit, you’ll get to hear them.   

The Cathedral is known as 'the Manquita' because it lacks a tower that should’ve been built during its construction.  

Also see the Alcazaba, which is a fortress/palace and was built in the Muslim era. Where: C / Alcazabilla, s / n. Tel.: +34, 952122020

From here, head up to Gibralfaro Castle which dominates the city skyline and has some amazing views.

The Roman Theatre is located below the Citadel, and was discovered by chance in the city, making this one of the city’s most unusual sights. Where: Calle Alcazabilla, 8, Phone: +34 951 041 400

Also check out  Bar Pim-pi in front of the Roman Theatre.  This is one of my favourite traditional bars in Malaga.  I used to come here with my parents and over the years, I’ve seen its popularity grow.  Today, it’s filled barrels signed by famous people, while their photos adorn the walls.  The atmosphere hasn’t changed a bit and still retains its quintessential Malaga charm.  Where: Calle Granada 62, Malaga. Tel.: +34 952228990

The Campana Bodega is also nearby.  Bodegas are traditional wine cellars, which serve not only the best local wines, but fantastic tapas.  Try the “pescaito frito” (fried fish), it’s delicious!   Where: C / Granada, 35

For dinner, there are plenty of restaurants to choose from in Malaga, however, for somewhere a little unusual, I recommend El Tintero.  It’s not a traditional restaurant in the true sense of the word, but in fact a value for money beachside café or “chiringuito” which comes with its own singing waiters.  Plus it serves up the best shellfish, grilled fish, fried fish and sardines that are so fresh, they’ve just stopped swimming! 
Where: Playa El Dedo (El Palo) Tel.: +34 952 204 464.

Miguelito Chiringuito is another great seafood stop off, serving up traditional dishes from Pedregalejo (the old town fishing area of Malaga).   Also situated directly on the beach, it serves a massive selection of fish, seafood and paella dishes.
Where: Paseo Marítimo El Pedregal, 77 Tel.: +34 952 299 443

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Day 2 – Malaga / Nerja / Granada

Get up early and begin the journey down to Granada.  Instead of taking the short cut, take the more picturesque route via the Costa Nerja. There are some stunning caves to visit here, which are filled with stalagmites and stalactites. 

Also in Neja, take a walk through the town to the cliffs and discover why it’s known as the “Balcony of Europe.” 

Back on the route to Granada, and I recommend stopping off at Almuñecar and Salobreña to enjoy the coastal views. Check out the marina at Marina del Este.  It is a beautiful natural harbour, and makes a good coffee break before continuing on the road to Granada.

You should reach Granada by the afternoon.  Head to the  Sacromonte district located in the Valpariso Valley, in front of the Alhambra, Granda’s most famous building.   Homes in this unique neighbourhood were built into the hillside during in the 16th Century and remain in use today.   While in the neighbourhood, head to the Casa Ruanillo for some tapas.

Where: C / Camino del Monte, 81 (Sacromonte)

Day 3 – Granada

Dedicate the day to visiting the city.  Of course, start by visiting Granada’s most iconic sight, Granada's Alhambra and Generalife Gardens.   Because of the crowds, visitors are limited, so ensure you book your ticked ahead of time.  Log onto www.alhambra-tickets.es  or call +34 902888001.

You can easily spend the morning here, and then walk down through the winding Moorish streets of "Albaicin", which has been a declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Pathways lead up to the  Mirador de San Nicolas lookout, offering a picture postcard view of the Alhambra in all its glory.   Also, see the traditional “carmines” or houses typical to the Granada region, especially the most impressive, the “Carmen de la Victoria”. Where: Cuesta del Chapiz, s / n, Tel: +34 958 223 122,

Continue along to the Plaza San Miguel Bajo and take a break for tapas and beer at the Acebuche al Ándalus restaurant.  The owner is Brazilian and has added a touch of Brazilian spice to the meals on offer.

Try their Andalusian style chicken which with is fragranced with orange blossom, lemon and carrot puree!   Also sample the unusually delicious couscous with meat, banana, caramel, honey and herbs.   It’s a taste sensation! Where: Plaza San Miguel Bajo. Tel.: +34 687279149

If you still have energy to see other historical buildings, visit the cathedral and the Capilla Real chapel. It is a masterpiece of Spanish Renaissance and worth a look.

In the afternoon, soak up the atmosphere in this historical centre and if you’re feeling peckish, then check out the tea shops and cafes.  You’ll notice the Muslim influence here.  My favourite is  Morisca Pastry Tetería tea-shop. Where: Calle Calderería Vieja, 12.    

Alternatively, if you fancy a drink and an afternoon snack, I recommend El Pilar del Toro

Where: Hospital de Santa Ana, 12, which is very close to Plaza Nueva, a seventh century former manor house with a beautiful airy interior courtyard.

Favourite dinner options include:

Mirador de Moraima Restaurant is situated in a traditional “carmen” style house in the Albaicín area offering views to the Alhambra in Granada.  It’s worth pre-booking a table here, but don’t forget to ask for a table with a view.   The restaurant serves traditional dishes from the region, which are a little pricey, but worth spending the extra Euros. Where: Calle Pianista Garcia Carrillo, 2. Tel: +34 958 228 290

Reca Bar: is perfect place to head for tapas.  It’s a small on the inside, but step out onto the enormous terrace.  The tapas are also some of the finest in Granada. Where: Plaza de la Trinidad on the corner of Calle Infantes.

Bar Los Diamantes is another good tapas choice which specialises in fish dishes.  But arrive early to get a table as this is a favourite with the locals. Where: Calle Navas, 26, Granada.

Ruta del Veleta Restaurant:  In my opinion, this is the best restaurant in Granada.  But don’t just take my word for it as it comes recommended in the Michelin Guide.  Its location is dramatic – on an old road running up towards the Sierra Nevada so, so it’s quite an adventure to get to.   The food here, as you can expect comes highly recommended, but then quality does come at a (high) price. Where: Cenes de la Vega. Tel: +34 958 486 134

Day 4 – Granada / Córdoba

Hit the road early and head directly to the pretty town of Córdoba.  The drive is picturesque and passes orchards filled with of olive trees which go onto make Spain’s liquid gold – olive oil.

Once in Cordoba take a troll long the banks of the Guadalquivir River over to the Roman bridge:

Cordoba Mosque (or Mezquita) and the Synagogue is the point at which two religions meet. The synagogue lies in the Jewish Quarter and is worth a visit, while the Mezquita is possibly Cordoba’s most famous building as its Arabic column formation is quite a sight.

It was once the world’s second largest mosque until reclaimed by the Christians during the Spanish Conquest. 

Entrance to the Mezquita costs 8€ , however I recommend joining a guided tour.  At 35€, it’s not cheap, but you’ll receive a lively insight into this fascinating building’s history.

The Jewish area is a recognised World Heritage Site and the largest in Europe.  Some recommended tapas stops include:

Bar “Pepe de la Judería is an old tavern with great service where you can sample the famous “salmorejo” or bull's tail which is a typical Cordoban dish. Where: Calle Romero, 1. Tel.: +34 957 200 744.

Once fed, hit the bars in town.  Head to Plaza de Las Tendillas, Plaza del Cristo de los Faroles, and onto Plaza del Potro and Plaza de la Corredera for a lively atmosphere and a chance to mingle with the locals.

Other recommended restaurants in this area include the Cellar Restaurant which offers home-cooked meals that come highly recommended, and also where you can try their take on local bull’s tail dish – “salmorejo flamenquín” - but this time with a Flamencan twist.”  Alternatively tuck into the aubergines with honey (berenjenas con miel) – it’s devine.  Plus during the Spring months, sit b